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May 17, 2007
Authentic Hyderbadi Chicken Biryani with a Modern Dum
Baking is an exact science. Indian Cooking is not. One of the most forgiving styles of cooking [except mithais and pakwaans], Indian cooking is kind to the cook and takes on as many beautiful and delicious variations as there are cooks. The versatility of spices is truly exploited in Indian cooking and I say that in a good way. And what better case study to present on this topic than to talk about a true classic "Murgh Biryani". Or "Chicken Biryani", "Murgh Dum Biryani", "Hyderabadi Murg Biryani". As many names as there are variations, as many tastes as there are spices.
I have had the pleasure of tasting a myraid variety of "Biryanis". The chicken biryani quickly escalated to my list of "have to eat" foods. There was a restaurant called 'Namaskar' in a little suburb called Thane in Mumbai. They used to dish up the most gorgeous looking biryani ever. The rich, creamy, golden sauce enveloping succulent pieces of perfectly browned chicken, speckled with the contrasting tastes and textures of saffron infused rice, cashewnuts and raisins was a feast for the soul. The 'Briyani' [no, I haven't spelt that wrong] as it was called in Singapore had a very 'shiok' feel to it, the influence of Malaysian cooking evolving the Nasi Briyani's taste to a new level. The Biryani at "Khansama" in Singapore's Little India was bursting with North Indian Dhaba-style flavour.
I tried making different kinds at home, with different meats and different preparation methods .... the true Hyderabadi Biryani taste always elusive. Then I came upon this gorgeous little book of traditional Hyderabadi recipes, a curious and whimsy mix of English and local lingo with words like "adrak", "dekchi", "dalchini", "sabut" and "elaichi" simmering happily together with "garlic", "yoghurt", "lamb" and "saffron". This book had three versions of Chicken Biryani, the last one being the closest to the authentic one. I have been making this version every few months over the last few years with minor variations and last night I think I finally stopped searching.
Of course, the taste might not be what you were looking for after reading my elaborate build-up, but it is truly delicious. Give it a try! A tad time consuming, linger over it, taste it often, adjust spices and seasonings to your taste and you won't regret it. The use of ghee, cardamoms, cashewnuts and saffron is vital to the taste.
Gel's Special Chicken Biryani
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Ingredients
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1 large chicken, cleaned and cut into pieces
2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained
2 large red onions, halved and thinly sliced + 1 small red onion
1/2 cup yoghurt
1/2 cup almonds
1/2 cup cashewnuts
1/4 cup raisins
1 inch piece of ginger
8 garlic cloves
2 green chillies
1 inch piece of cinnamon
5-6 cloves
6-8 cardamom pods
3 bay leaves
1 tsp red chilli powder
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp cumin powder
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp chicken masala [optional]
1 cup milk
1 cup water
6-8 strands of saffron
3 tbsp ghee [clarified butter]
1/4 cup fresh cream
salt to taste
2 tsp sugar
freshly chopped coriander and mint leaves for garnish
Method
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Warm milk and add saffron strands. Add water, cover and set aside.
Combine 1 small red onion, garlic, ginger, almonds, cinnamon, cloves, cardamoms, green chillies, turmeric powder and red chilli powder in a mortar and grind with the pestle to form a coarse paste. Add salt to taste and yoghurt. Mix well and coat the chicken pieces with this marinade. Cover and set aside.
In a heavy bottomed deep pan, heat ghee on medium heat. When hot, add bay leaves, cashewnuts, raisins, sugar and sliced onions. Cook, stirring continuously for a few minutes till onions are golden and soft. Add the marinated chicken pieces and cook on high heat for 15 minutes, tossing and mixing, till the chicken pieces are golden and lightly browned. Add all the remaining spices. Adjust seasoning according to taste. Reduce heat to low, add cream and mix well. Remove from heat.
In an oven-proof deep dish [I like to use a huge Claypot or heavy bottomed saucepan with a lid], spoon in a layer of soaked rice. Top with a layer of the cooked chicken. Add another layer of rice, followed by a layer of the chicken, finishing off with a layer of rice. Gently pour the milk and saffron mixture over the rice. Cover with the lid and bake in a pre-heated oven for 40-50 minutes at 200 deg C. When done, remove the lid and test the rice. If fluffy and cooked, remove from the oven and stand with lid covered for approximately 30 minutes. Garnish with freshly chopped coriander and mint leaves.
Serve hot with yoghurt or fruit raita.
*Note* When I put the biryani in the oven to cook, I add a weight [usually the pestle of my stone 'mortar and pestle set'] on top of the closed lid. This seals the air in and creates a pressure which cooks the ingredients to perfection. A modern style "dum" if you may.
Posted by Gel at May 17, 2007 4:10 PM
Comments
I will definitely have to try this! My MIL makes the best chicken biryani ever. But of course has no acutal recipe written down to follow, and despite my numerous requests for her to show me how to make it refuses too. I think it is her way of ensuring we still come over for dinner :)
Posted by: Christy at June 13, 2007 6:49 AM
